I’ve finally sat down long enough to put my thoughts about my time on Santo Island in Vanuatu in words. There is no way in a blog that I can cover the feelings, emotions and experiences of June 30th – July 9th adequately, so most of this will have to wait for the book (and that means I need to finish the final chapters). So, I will touch on the highlights and include some gallery photos at the end.
     Just getting there became a challenge. The airline that was to ferry me from Efate Island, Port Vila, Vanuatu up to Luganville on Santo went bust a few weeks prior to my trip. Then it became a merry task to see when I could get an air taxi charter off Efate and up to Santo. This date changed several times, I lost money on non-refundable hotel bookings due to changes, but we finally got things resolved. I arrived on Efate on July 2nd and on the 3rd I was flown up to Santo-Pekoa Airport and picked up by Jimmy Carter, my museum contact. We headed straight to my hotel, The Espiritu on Main Street (otherwise known by locals as “The Tu”) and had a great meal and a bit of a rest.
     After retrieving the plaque from my very heavy suitcase we headed up to the South Pacific WW2 Museum. How can I truly describe my feelings here? Standing on the grounds leased by the museum folks I was able to look out onto Segond Channel. This is where hundreds, thousands of ships and men spent time, right here between missions. The naval base, then known as “Base Button” was situated right here. The naval Officer’s Club was just across the street and down a block or so from the building that houses the museum. My uncle Billy and his shipmates were here. Right here, in these Pacific Islands that he exclaimed in his last letter home, “are a gall to us”. This was the last place he and 45 others were alive, and I was here. There are no words.
     Moving on….July 3rd, at the museum I met for the first time Marina, a Ni-Vanuatu lady sweet as can be and very proficient in putting together spreadsheets. I had brought some candy from a store here in Lexington to share with the ladies and got a big hug from Marina. Also there were Lynn who I met briefly, and Gabby, a student intern from a Presbyterian college in South Carolina. Another American! I had my hard drive with me and sat in the office sharing some of my documents with Jimmy and Gabby, some of which I will share with Jimmy for the museum archives. We had a discussion about the program for the unveiling of the plaque and my part in this. A bit nervous, but truly excited to see how it all goes off. A fellow from Santo Hardware, Danielo would be coming by to mount the plaque within the display window. Jimmy was very happy with the plaque and it will look impactful within the window.
     July 4th, Jimmy met me at the Tu for breakfast and coffee. Bill Widup of Up and Up Ministries (another American and the fellow responsible for helping me get my flight from Efate to Santo) met with us. Back down the street I got a tour of the area around the museum, the former naval and PT base. Kennedy would have been here. All that remains are lots of concrete slabs, foundations and steel barrier walls that helped support the harbor and jetty. Ships would anchor in the channel and boats would head out to them to bring men ashore. After the tour and chatting more with the folks at the museum, Marina walked with me back to the hotel. Jet lag was really taking its toll and all I wanted to do was lie down and try to get sleep, rest for the following day. She saw me safely back to my temporary home and even shared some information about her own grandfather and his role in the war under MacArthur. Perhaps I can talk more about that later. That evening I was invited to dinner with the Australian couple that Jimmy was staying with, Wendy and Stephen Turner. The company before dinner consisted of another couple from Australia who live next door to them on Barrier Beach, and a couple from New Zealand. Dinner by Wendy along with Stephen’s pork roast was super delicious and very welcome! Across the bay from their home was the faint image of Ambae Island, the volcanic island that inspired James Michener’s “Bali Hai”. He was on Santo while writing Tales of the South Pacific and in a bungalow just a few miles up the coast from where I currently sat. We could see a faint smoke trail coming from the crater through the mist. It’s easy to see how he became enthralled. A few minutes later, the haze completely obscured the view of the volcano. Gone in the mists.
    One other amazing thing meeting Stephen and Wendy. I mentioned David Mearns and Wendy gasped. Seems her grandfather, James William Birch was on board the HMAS Sydney, one of the casualties. They were both at the memorial for the ship shortly after David discovered the wreck and met him. How cool to make that connection!
      July 5th, the 81st anniversary of the sinking of the DD467. The ceremony for the unveiling was live streamed on Facebook. Evidently there were some audio drops, but Jimmy had an extra GoPro camera running and will fix these issues when he gets home to his own equipment. A link will be posted that I can share soon as possible. I really thought I’d be more nervous about this. I had a speech prepared on index cards, delivered it and ad-libbed a bit, and Bill Widup also spoke. We both got choked up on camera and it hit me – this plaque and its placement at the museum has great meaning for the people here, for those who live and work here. There is much emotion attached to this plaque, much meaning and context to the area and with Bill being retired military it resonates. My hope is that others who come through here over the years will have similar feelings regardless of their military affiliation. Most everyone who had family in WW2 experienced some sort of loss. This plaque keeps our men alive for as long as their names are out there. They are not truly gone. Amazing refreshments were served by Marina, Gabby, Lynn and others. After the event, I returned to my hotel and had a major crash.
     July 6th, a tour with Rick Wood, son of Bradley Wood of the museum, Jimmy, Gabby and myself to the site of Hospital Hill. This was a high point on the island with a view of the bay that housed a hospital and several large gun mounts aimed out toward the water in case the Japanese got bold enough to come around. Now, just more foundations, slabs and lots of cattle peaved that we were disturbing their peace. From there we visited a beautiful blue hole at Matevulu, the former site of the Black Sheep Squadron base where the famous Pappy Boyington reigned supreme. The road we drove down was the former airstrip. Next stop was Port Olry, a small French settlement with a purely Catholic population – and one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. A couple of small beachside restaurants are there and we ate at Chez Louis in an open atmosphere with nothing but blue sky, blue water and sand in our toes. On the way back to town we visited another blue hole that Rick and the islanders frequent, then back to the hotel for me. One note, these blue holes – the water was clear as glass and blue as blue can be. Just stunning.
     July 7th, a quiet day of rest. I’ve felt rough through the week and on this day was starting to feel a bit better. I began to wonder if I’m too old or settled for this kind of travel. Geez, but the jet lag was rough.
     July 8th, my last full day here was again a bit rough starting out. Our guide this time was Mayumi Green, a Japanese national who along with her Australian hubby has lived on the island for 36 years. They run dive operation out near the site of the sinking of the SS President Coolidge and Million Dollar Point. In her trusty steed of a 4-wheel drive truck were myself, Jimmy, Gabby and Mayumi. To say the road system there needs work is the understatement of the century. However, we managed to get in the sites of the 1st and 3rd Bomber airfields; a river with the remains of a WW2 era pontoon bridge built by Seabees; the temporary cemetery on Santo where the remains of US dead were interred until being claimed and sent off to Finschaffen, Manila or the Punchbowl; a large concrete structure of unknown function; many bunkers up in the hills left behind and some repurposed by the natives for storage; the site of the wreck of the SS President Coolidge and Million Dollar Point. Never in my life did I imagine I’d be on a beach so strewn with metal wreckage from machinery dumped offshore after the war. Do not walk around here in bare feet.
     Lunch time in between all the sights was at Turtle Bay Resort, a place of true beauty and great food. Mayumi treated us to a beautiful lunch and later in the day bought each of us a WW2 era Coke bottle found on the beach by local children. All in all, a very full day topped off with several coconuts gifted to us by men who hitched a ride up the road in the back of Mayumi’s truck.
     July 9th and I headed home. My travel agent booked me 1st class all the way and to say I enjoyed it would just be too easy. I’m spoiled, but I needed it. I’ve never been able to sleep on a plane, but when you are reclined and have a pillow and blanket on a 10.5 hour flight, it’s much easier. I got home on the 10th and began my recovery from major jet lag. There is so much more I could write about, but this is the longest blog ever. The book will reveal more, and even then I may have to just relegate some things to pleasant personal memories.

    Home now, and getting my thoughts together. The Facebook posts by the museum are showing much interest in the new display and the plaque, just as I hoped. This is why this little museum is the right fit – it has a dedicated spot within the museum where it will get the attention it deserves right on the old naval base where these men last lived. I couldn’t be happier with the decision and am so happy that you, the families were on board with it. A forever huge thank you to the folks at the South Pacific WW2 Museum and Long live Strong DD467!
-Tammi
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